Selection of Test Curve

Test Curve - Many talk about it on the bank as if to show prowess in their tackle, but what does it actually mean and how will the Test Curve affect the handling of a rod when casting and playing fish. Suppose we took a 2.75lb TC (Test Curve) rod and were looking to fish a water with fish to mid-twenty, how would the rod stand up?

Replies:

1. There is no link between test curve of rod and fish size. The test curve dictates it's action and really indicates how 'soft' or 'hard' the rod is - for playing fish (generally) the softer the action the better. For general carp fishing I would advise a 2.25 or 2lb TC rod coupled with line between 8 and 15lb will be fine.

2. The larger the TC the stiffer action, and a stiffer rod in effect, will have less of a cushioning effect whilst playing a carp. The figure of 2.75lb TC is the amount of weight needed to bend the tip of the rod at 90 degrees to the butt. A soft rod is more forgiving when the Carp is making lunges under the rod tip, usually whilst netting.
A sudden move/lunge by the Carp will be cushioned by the bend in the rod. The stiffer the rod, the less of a cushion you have. For most of my fishing I use a 3.5lb TC rod with braid. The stiff rod and lack of stretch makes for some heart stopping moments when netting. I will set the clutch to be very slack and I use my forefinger on the side of the spool, so if a carp makes a lunge I just lift my forefinger and the carp will take line. In taking line the hook won't be pulled from its mouth. In my opinion this technique isn't necessary for 2.75lb TC rods and below. For me an all round rod would be a 2.5lbTC or 2.75lbTC rod. This would allow you to cast and handle fish in most situations. However, if the rod is a little too soft for the situation, for example near snags, then you won't have enough backbone to steer the carp away from danger. Also, a softer rod will compress too quickly and will 'bottom-out' when casting heavy leads or long distances. So all in all, it's about finding a balance. What sort of fishing do you do? Long range fishing, snaggy features, 'Method' casting, etc. will need a higher TC. Short ranges, light leads and open water fishing would only need a low TC rod.

3. The test curve is simply the measure of the power of the rod. It'll give you an idea of the optimum casting weight and breaking strain of line to use. Very roughly use 1oz of weight and 5lbs breaking strain per 1lb of test curve. Having designed and built rods professionally for many years it's interesting that the most popular test curve has gone steadily upwards. I suspect this has a lot to do with the trend for long range fishing, plus the tendency to use heavy leads to act as bolt rigs to self-hook the fish. Note that the test curve of the rod tells you nothing about the action of the rod. Very simplistically, the action describes how much of the rod bends when the tip is pulled round. A "soft" rod, i.e. one that bends through to near the handle can be any test curve you like. However, most high test curve carp rods will have almost all of their action in the top section of the rod. This helps with long casting, but is not so good for playing fish at close range. For most commercial carp fisheries a test curve of around 2¼lbs is fine. Where longer casting is needed, e.g. gravel pits 2¾ will be a better bet. Later on, if you want to be able to cast at very long range you may prefer an even more powerful rod, perhaps one with a 3¼lb test curve.

4. The test curve is very misleading, as a rod such as a 2.75lb tc Harrison Ballista will feel much less powerful than some of the fast taper rods of the same rating. I have owned 1.75lb tc rods that were hardly powerful enough for big chub, yet some people use less powerful rods for barbel in big rivers. I would recommend using the lightest rod you can safely get away with, and only use rods of 2.75lb tc plus if you really have to.